Edwards E-LP-130LTS/RE hardware differences

[Bumblebee]

Hello!

I have an Edwards E-LP-130. The guitar is from 2007.
I have seen on the HP of esp/edwards that the guitar should be fitted with
a Gotoh stop/tail pece, mine is definitely a Tonepro.
Also the tuners are not Gotoh as advertised on the HP, mine read Deluxe on the back.
And I don't have the no name caps inside. I have Sozo mustard caps reading 0.0047mF.
These are all original parts and nothing has been changed.

Has anyone other experiences? Does the hardware differ very much?
It looks like they use what they have.

Pics will follow but the guitar is now by my luthier for 50's wiring and aging of the bridge and stop/tail piece.
ESP did a good job of the relic look, but a new bridge and stop/tail piece just won't match.

 

[marcusnieman]

ESP did a good job of the relic look, but a new bridge and stop/tail piece just won't match.

Yeah, my thoughts on the Jimmy Page relic too.

 

[gibiphone]

The tuners in my '07 E-LP130 are Gotoh brand Kluson-style Deluxe tuners. Yes they read 'DELUXE' on the cover.

Here is a pic of the stock innards:

Hope this helps.

 

[Bumblebee]

The tuners in my '07 E-LP130 are Gotoh brand Kluson-style Deluxe tuners. Yes they read 'DELUXE' on the cover.

Yes, mine are the same. I have seen some newer Edwards and they have blank Kluson-Style tuners.

Here is a pic of the stock innards:

Looks like the caps from the official website. Mine are Sozo's and are not the standard 0.022mF. What values are your caps?

Hope this helps.

It helped a lot! Thanks

 

[gibiphone]

The caps are rated .0223

The pots as you can see from my earlier picture are CTS 500s, and the cover is shielded.

Honestly, I can find nothing that needs changing on this guitar. Even the setup right out of the box was good; the action is low and flawless, except a slight buzz when bending the high e string at the 18th fret.

 

[Bumblebee]

The caps are rated .0223

The pots as you can see from my earlier picture are CTS 500s, and the cover is shielded.

Honestly, I can find nothing that needs changing on this guitar. Even the setup right out of the box was good; the action is low and flawless, except a slight buzz when bending the high e string at the 18th fret.

There are a few things I immediately changed.

The wiring is totally f**** upped! It's not even a Les Paul Standard wiring. With the ESP factory wiring you can turn down the volume for each pickup individually. This will be impossible with a correct LP wiring. As soon as you turn down one volume, both pickups are dead.
So I changed directly to a correct 50's wiring.

The Tailpiece is made out of zink and not out of alu. So this needs to be changed to aluminium. Also the bridge should be changed cause it's a really cheap bridge. Should be a wireless bridge with brass saddles. But it's not!
A Tokai LS-135 (which would be comparible) has an alu tailpiece and a brass bridge when leaving the factory!

Next the setup. It looks ok and yes it plays ok. But it's crap. The bridge is way too high. The reason for that is that ESP delivers all their guitars with absolutely straight necks. But that's not the optimum. The neck needs to be curved just a little bit.
So what needs to be done is to relieve the neck tension a bit and then you can set the bridge lower and still get a perfect low action.
By the way guess what?! Yes, the Tokai LS-135 is perfectly setup by the factory.

These are the major points that should, better need to be done to any Edwards LP-130.

 

[gibiphone]

Just a couple points back to you.

On my '07 E-LP130, both the Gotoh Tune-O-Matic bridge and Gotoh stop tailpiece are lightweight aluminum.

I don't know that you mean by "a Les Paul Standard wiring". There are many standard ways of wiring an LP as done by the Gibson factory over the years. Even Gibson doesn't use the "50's style" wiring pattern as its standard any longer. Among the variations in the linked diagrams below, you will also find a pattern for 50's style with independent volume controls.

http://ashbass.com/AshBassGuitar/WireLibrary-Gibson.html

But I agree 100%. If you don't like the setup from the factory, by all means change it to meet your needs. Good luck and enjoy!!

 

[JVsearch]

The wiring that kills off both pickups when in the middle position is good for using the selector switch as a kill switch for the bridge pickup.

In general, a LP should be set-up with the neck almost dead straight (fret work permitting) and Strats/Teles/Jag/Jazz with a bit of relief, especially those with the more curved vintage fret board radius. It's not a fault in the Fender design or anything, it just maximises the sustain without raising the action too high.

Of course, this isn't a rule, and any setup that works for you is a good one!