attenuators

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Pete

It's an easy job to un-solder the wires from your speaker and fit a jack stocket, then fit two new wires to the speaker with a jack plug attached. So you can either connect it back up as it was, or put an attenuator in line.

If you like the sound of your amp wound-up then it will do a lot better job than the power-tap.
 
I have several old marshall, all NMV. My suggestions is to go look at the Ultimate Attenuator, more than an attenuator is a reamping device, the tone of your amp gets reamped by a 100 w ultra transparent transitor amp, and you can set any volume you want without no loss in dynamic and tone.
Its more expensive but much more worth, I am going to sell my hotplate.
The hotplate is a good solution only if you intend to play at loud (but not insane volumes), after -8db the tone start to compress and crap out.

Another good attenuator is the Ritcher, which is supposed to be very transparent at any volume without reamplification.
 
I also own a Power Scaled Amp (Matamp) and having run through just about every attenuator that I have been able to get my hands on before commissioning this amp, I would not bother looking at anything else again.

I would also point out that whilst it may have been an expensive option once, this is not the case anymore. An additional charge of ?150 to the Amp's price.

But obviously it is a case of personal preference. 8)
 
Thanks for the advice john, I'm not too clever at soldering myself but I have had a look on the internet and found this. Is this what you mean?
Pete.
LETTER001-1.jpg
 
Max The Dog said:
Thanks for the advice john, I'm not too clever at soldering myself but I have had a look on the internet and found this. Is this what you mean?
Pete.
LETTER001-1.jpg

Looks perfect as long as your current speaker is connected using spade connectors and not soldered on. If you but a 1/4 inch mono jack plug and socket from Maplins for ?1 each a amp tech, or even a TV repair man would probably solder them on for a fiver.
 

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