Help with notes fretting out

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chief
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Help with notes fretting out

Post by chief » Tue Oct 17, 2006 12:33 am

Hi,

I have a strat with vintage 7.25" radius maple neck. I changed the frets to medium jumbo. Now, some notes in the high register, around 12th-15th fret of the high E string, fret out when I bend 1 and a half to 2 steps. I use .011 string sets.

The bridge saddles are at its maximum. Would you recommend tweaking the truss rod and adding relief to the neck?

marcusnieman
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Post by marcusnieman » Tue Oct 17, 2006 5:06 am

Before you do that, put a straight edge atop your new frets without strings.....you might have a high one on that end that needs to be tapped down. That can also cause you to fret out when bending.


If that's not the case, you may need to adjust the truss rod

10th gear
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Post by 10th gear » Tue Oct 17, 2006 5:22 pm

What's the difference between " fretting out " and " frett buzz? I made Guitar God today by posting my tune of the Day, but I still only know 3 chords..lol....... 8)
Keep On Rockin On...

frpax
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Post by frpax » Tue Oct 17, 2006 6:52 pm

10th gear wrote:What's the difference between " fretting out " and " frett buzz?
Fretting out is the next worse step after fret buzz. You need either a good set up, your frets dressed, or both.

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Post by marcusnieman » Wed Oct 18, 2006 5:05 am

frpax wrote:
10th gear wrote:What's the difference between " fretting out " and " frett buzz?
Fretting out is the next worse step after fret buzz. You need either a good set up, your frets dressed, or both.
To be more specific, fret buzz is when you pick a fretted or open note on a single string or chord on multiple strings and as it rings, there is a buzzing from the strings on the neck from the string(s) bouncing off off one or more frets. Sometimes it translates the buzz thru the amp, more often it doesn't. It's an annoyance more than anything.

Fretting out is a different story and it usually happens when you bend a note. As you bend it, the note goes dead because the string is laying flat atop a fret(s) and it kills the note. This is most due to a relatively flat neck profile and low string action. Usually an easy truss rod adjustment. It can also be due to a high fret after a fret replacement.

jawilluk
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Post by jawilluk » Wed Oct 18, 2006 5:32 am

If the new frets are higher, did you change the nut?

10th gear
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Post by 10th gear » Wed Oct 18, 2006 2:08 pm

Thanks All for the insight. I appreciate it.
You can't learn if you don't ask right? :D
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marcusnieman
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Post by marcusnieman » Wed Oct 18, 2006 5:12 pm

Well, we're all pontificating wind bags anyway :wink:

TSL
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Post by TSL » Wed Oct 18, 2006 9:42 pm

Have the guitar Pleked. By far the most accurate. Even with proper truss rod adjustment, the neck may not have the proper relief at certain points that is needed for it ring every note fully. When the Plek scans it, the fret hieght can add, or reduce finger board relief accordingly. It's amazing.

If your action is high (5 6/4's" at the 12th fret or more) and the problem is only at one fret, any decent luthier can take care of it. If the problem exists to various degress here and there, and your action is 3 or 4 64ths" (distance between the 12th fret and the bottom of the high e, undepressed anywhere on the neck) then just send it for pleking. It will have huge rewards, and save you multiple trips back to your local luthier as the problem recurs later.

Hey, I value my local luthier tremendously, and find plenty of work for him on my guitars. ..But for accurate fret hieght throughout the entire neck, I have to have it Pleked.

marc
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Post by marc » Mon Dec 04, 2006 10:54 pm

Hi
sorry maybe i should have post a whole new topic for this one but maybe it as been said before and i just don t know it. What is pleking a neck??? never heard about this before ( forgive my ignorance).
marc

TSL
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Post by TSL » Mon Dec 04, 2006 11:03 pm

Do a search on this forum. You'll find plenty of info. Or just plain Google "Plek guitar".

It is a laser guided device that scans the topoghraphy of the fingerboard as well as the fret heights, and provides a relief map of the actual relationship of the string to the bpard and the fret separtely, for each fret. Then it can be programmed to cut the frets down to however you want them: profile (width of the plateau), hieght, amount of relief the string see against the frets, regardless of the board condition. 1000th of an inch tolerances.

IF you like high action, any decent luthier can get your guitar playing real nice. IF you want even reasonably low action, and particularly if you bend alot, plekking can make every note and bend axactly the same, the way no hand dressing can. I value luthiers highly, and respect thier skilles, but this a valuable tool for them, and as I am fussy about dead spots, eveness etc., and play my strings fairly low, it is the only was to go for me. Intonataion benefits as well, by being even everywhere on the neck.

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