79 Reborn

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carl300367

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Just bought a 79 LS80 reborn however the bridge and tailpeice look way to shiney to be 40yrs old would these be a direct fit ?
https://www.wdmusic.co.uk/relic-parts-c4/gotoh-aged-parts-c86/gotoh-tune-o-matic-aged-relic-finish-abr-1-style-bridge-p13401
https://www.wdmusic.co.uk/relic-parts-c4/gotoh-aged-parts-c86/gotoh-tailpiece-aluminium-aged-relic-finish-p13403

https://www.wdmusic.co.uk/hardware-parts-c1/knobs-c39/gibson-replacement-knobs-c137/wd-music-toggle-knob-amber-usa-fit-for-switchcraft-p4435

sorry to ask but would this be a nitro or laquer finish :oops: :oops:

and finally the wiring in the cavity is a board is it worth taking out and more traditional wiring put in place be better with switchcraft pots etc
 
A LS80 from those years would be nitro for sure. It has something in it that makes it wear differently that Gibson's easy crackle recipe.

Most people think taking out the circuit board for a new harness would be an upgrade but if you do i'd keep the old parts just in case you want to sell. Some people like originality.

I'm not sure if Tokai was metric in those years or Imperial. Hopefully someone can verify what parts you'd need to upgrade your bridge and tailpiece. You could always do some home aging if you think the shiny ones are quality.
 
Hi guys,

LS-80 came with nickel plated hardware - not chrome. For all hardware, I would use Gotoh as they made the original Tokai hardware and they do sell aged versions of the aluminium tailpiece and ABR-1 bridge.
If changing the pots, I would recommend either Gotoh or Alpha (Japanese made).
Using CTS will require an enlargement of the holes, making the refitment of the original PCB awkward.
Capacitor can be Mylar (Sprague Orange Drop) or PIO. For best tonal results, I would suggest the 50s wiring pattern

regards
Peter
 
Yes they are, with plated back plates an usually zebra uncovered
 

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