Fret-edge binding, which models?

Hi guys, I have a question.

Over the years, which Tokai guitars have had fret-edge binding as a standard spec?

I am really curious to see if people agree that fret-edge binding reallly adds that extra "something" to a neck.

More specifically, Reborns, Love Rocks, TJ's, ES's & SG's.

BTW. 2006 Vol.23 Catalogue is now in pdf. It is 8.25mb, sorry to any one on dial up.
http://www.tokaiguitars.com.au
Peter

my 1985 ls 70 has fret edge binding. def feels better than no edge binding.
i am led to believe that my guitar which i bought in from japan was a custom order as the fret edge binding is not normally on ls70's

thanks mike,

Yes, it is something normally associated with the higher end models.

I am glad you have a special guitar there 8)

Peter

1981 LS120 yes, 1984 and 1985 LS60s no. I like the LS120 neck a little bit better, but it's also thinner which may be the main reason.

my 81 LS80 has got it

My LS 80 Reborn Old from 1980 has it, too.
CT

My 82' LC has it. I've never really thought about a playing difference though - I suppose it makes the fret edges a little smoother to my tender pinkies.

early ..reborns and love rocks up to 83 all LS80 and above have it ...

it adds something hehe... hassle during the winter summer temp change when gaps appear due to the relative expansion rates of metal and plastic...!!! I like it though...

my 1978 LS-60 Les Paul Reborn does not have it and it`s as smooth as silk...don`t need it. And I`ll be happy it doesn`t have the binding when the time comes for a refret... and it will come.

Thanks everybody for the replies.

Sneakyjapan & villager, thanks for bringning some of the drawbacks of fret edge binding up.

Luckily, the change in temperature between summer and winter in Oz is nowhere as extreme as you guys get, so the difference in expansion may be less noticable here.

There is no way I would refret any of my guitars myself, so I guess that when the time comes for a refret, I would have to dig deeper into my pocket.

My 1978 LS60 does not have it, and yes, it is as smooth as silk too.

Thanks again.

Peter

so...we got the same model Tokai from the same year, we`re in the same part of the world, we`re both gonna need a refret some day.....and we have the same first name. MAN this is freaky.

S/N ...8001671, Brown Sunburst.

What would be really freaky is if the serial numbers were in sequence.

Peter

s/n 8000316.

as a rule-
1978-1984/85 LS 80's, LS 100's and LS120/150's have fret edge binding-
(foresure on 1978 thru 1981)

I have one LS80 from 1983 that has the fretedge binding-

I have had 2 LS65 from 1989/1990 that If I remember correctly had fretedge binding- but at least those 2 flametop's I had had neck/fret issues.

Does anyone know if it's possible to retrofit fretedge binding?
How hard would it be? You'd probably have to remove the current
binding, I suppose or is there an easier way?

Thanks!

Hi detroitace,

concerning your question about the possibility of refretting a neck with fret-edge-binding I've got an interesting statement of a German luthier (one of the best) to this point.
As it was of course in German I translated for the forum members:

Hello Roger,

Thanks for your email.

The fretting ? la Gibson (fret-edge-binding) means that first of all the fretboard will be completely fretted, then after that it is easy to grind the width of the fret board and the fret edges. Then the binding will be fastened there and glued. The binding jutting out on to the level of the frets will be simply sharpened with the blade of a knife.

Most of the other manufacturers use to glue at first the fretboard, then mould it flush with the wood of the neck and after that they mould them together for the binding which will be glued in the next step. In this case the frets are overlapping the binding ? the ?playing zone? will be a little bit wider and string slipping beneath the frets will be avoided. You can see it sometimes on very old and shrinked fretboards. Therefore the base of the frets (which keeps the frets into the slots) must be cutted oder grinded in the area of the binding.

This method has the advantage that you can true off the glued fretboard properly before the frets will be mounted.

That is not possible with the Gibson-method and that is the reason for the mostly mediocre results of the Original Gibson-LP ? fretboards.

Concerning the refretting of a neck it doesn?t matter what kind of binding (fret-edge or not) has been used ex works. Trueing off the fretboard a grinding of the rests of binding on the level of the fretboard must unavoidable happen! After that the refretting of the neck will be carried through in accordance with method 2.

It is a big nonsense to try it in a different way because you will not get the same satisfying results. You should not try to rip off the binding for it will not survive that torture, exception: you want to give a new lacquer to your neck, but that will work with the Gibson nitro-lacquered necks only, not with the PU-lacquered ones. But you shouldn?t consider this for the sake of the beloved instruments. I would refuse to do so!

The other opportunity adjusting the frets exactly on to the binding tips has also to be ruled out because in this case you cannot true off the fretboard exactly and so you are not able to get an improvement of the playability at all. As every neck is more or less warped over the years trueing it off should normally equalize that on this occasion.

Regards
Andr?


Finally we've got an answer on our questions - long but interesting out of the sight of an expert! Fret-edge-binding will disappear !

Roger