Help with replacement parts for my Tokai

Tokai Forum

Help Support Tokai Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

karpouzac

New member
Joined
Feb 29, 2020
Messages
3
Reaction score
0
Hi guys, I've just registered to ask your help with this, I hope this is the right place to ask my question.

I have a Japanese Tokai LS90Q from 2006, and I'm thinking of installing a les trem on it. And since I'm adding that tremolo, I guess it would be nice to get a roller dridge too. It is very important for me to avoid any drilling or retrofitting, I need to be able to switch back to my original bridge and tailpiece. Ideally I'd prefer not to have to replace the studs, so I could swap parts when changing strings.

I've done my googling, and my understanding is that all MIJ tokais are using metric spec components, however I couldn't find the specs for my model, and I would appreciate if someone could confim this. My measurments are:
- Bridge stud spacing 73.5 mm
- Bridge string spacing (E to e) ~51.5 mm
- Tailpiece stud spacing 81.5 mm

I was thinking of buying these two components:

1) https://www.dv247.com/en_GB/GBP/Goeldo-Tunamatic-Roller-Bridge-Chrome/art-GIT0001122-022
2) https://www.dv247.com/en_GB/GBP/Goeldo-Duesenberg-SC-Trem-II-Tremolo-chrom/art-GIT0025177-000

I am also not sure about the brigde radius. I believe most MIJ LPs have a 12inch/300R radius, but this bridge is for 14. Would this be a problem ? Should I go for a 12 inch one?

Any ideas on whether or not these components would fit with my existing studs?
Any suggestions for components that you've tried and worked with no trouble, are very welcome.

Thank you all
 
12" radius

NICKEL for Japanese models, NOT chrome

74mm spacing (73.5 probably close enough)

I have no experience with these trem systems but I have a feeling you're going to struggle if you want a drop-in replacement with no modifications.
 
Thanks paladin,

I'm glad I asked before pulling the trigger :)
Just to make sure I get this right : are all MIJ LPs using Nickel, or just my model/year?

I've found some Tokai Catalogues, where it says my Tokai has an LS-VB bridge and LS-VT tailpiece.
Here are some MIJ listing with the same hardware, and it says chrome:
https://www.musamaailma.fi/tokai-es-166-see-thru-red-puoliakustinen-sahkokitara-kotelo.html?___store=english&___from_store=default
http://lyric.ph/product/tokai-ls92-gt/
https://www.musamaailma.fi/kitaristi/tokai-ls-100f-violin-finish-sahkokitara-kotelo.html?___store=english&___from_store=default

This one is exactly the same color as mine and again it's listed with chrome hardware
https://www.musamaailma.fi/kitaristi/tokai-ls-107q-indigo-blue-sahkokitara-kotelo.html?___store=english&___from_store=default

I'm looking at mine and it's hard to tell


I'd appreciate any suggestions for a drop in bridge, especially one I could buy from a UK store
 
The listing you linked to are incorrect. All MIJ Tokai 'Gibson' types have always had metric nickel hardware, which can make finding specialised replacement parts a nightmare since everyone assumes that imperial = nickel and metric = chrome, just like the sellers you linked to above! The difference in colour is not extreme but it is most definitely noticeable when mismatched parts are close together.

I personally have had similar problems recently and ended up having to buy a chrome version of the hardware I wanted and used hydrochloric acid to strip the plating back to nickel. Yes, that's right... under that 'cheap' chrome is an 'expensive' polished nickel base layer - one of the great ironies of the guitar world!

Note that I work in a specialised field and had the appropriate setup to deal with that situation.
 
thanks for taking the time to explain.

In my case I'm not too worried about this as the previous owner removed the pup covers, so if I change both bridge and tailpiclece, there's no other nickel component to mismatch.

As for the vintage looks, I have a gloss finish, so I dont worry about chrome flashy looks. I know it is an issue for some people, but its not a problem for me.

Can I ask one more thing: is my guitar using M4 thread posts? I see lots of tunamatic roller bridges that look ok with the rest of the specs, and they mention M4 posts. Would it be safe to go ahead and buy one of these?

Many thanks
 

Latest posts

Back
Top