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Is there something basically wrong with the switches Tokai are currently using on their Gibson clones? My LS85S has been playing up for a few weeks now - sometimes when I select the neck pickup, the signal cuts out. I can't see anything wrong with the switch, & all the connections look fine. Now my ES130 has started the same thing - this time when I select the bridge pickup, it sometimes cuts the signal out.

In both cases it's an intermittent fault. They are both 2007 models. Does anyone know if there's a problem with the way they were wired at this time? Or maybe Tokai bought a duff batch of 3 way switches?

I'm beginning to wonder if I should get new switches for them, which is annoying, as the switches on both my 1980 Springys are as good as new!

:-?

Mike
 
Hi Mike
That really is a strange coincidence, I got my PR 80Q out this afternoon which I have had and used without any trouble for about six months now and exactly the same problem. As you say its just on the bridge p/up position and intermittent. How odd.
Pete.
 
Edit: this is bad advice........ WD40. or probably better, a lubricating oil spray.

Took a Tokai to the local luthier a while back for the same problem, he gave the thing a quick spray ( for free ) and said that if he hung a guitar in his shop for a few months it would need the same treatment.
 
Seems strange that neither my Gibson nor any of my Strats or Teles are similarly affected.
 
Mine does it - I think it's just oxidisation or something like that - giving at good waggle usually helps. Switch cleaner will sort it out for a while but it seems to creep back. I've had similar issues on non Tokais too - I think the materials some connectors are made out of are just more prone to it than others
 
It's probably just the particular metal composition of the contacts being especially prone to oxidation.

There's only one switch cleaner that's any good:

Super Servisol.

25394v620.jpg
 
It's always been a problem, my '01 had similar issues until I replaced it with the allparts straight toggle (EP 0067-000) which is indestructible.

Don't use WD40, use a proper contact cleaner. Like goestoeleven, I swear by Servisol.
 
That?s a problem all of these switches may get (only some gold plated versions do better), don?t matters if it?s a Gibson, Tokai, or what ever. I had some dozens of such problem switches here on my table, and after injecting some Caig ProGold at the right points, these switches will work for long times. There is no need in changing these switches, just help ?em finding the right contact.

That?s also a problem you can find everywhere switches are used. For example tube amps, with switching jacks. One wrong contact, and there is no more sound coming out of the amp.

cya, "ACY"
 
So why do I virtually never have this problem with Strat or Tele switches? Is the Gibson type switch a bad design in comparison?
 
I think as the Strat style switches are always "sliding" (don?t know if it?s the right word) when using, they are cleaning the contact points by that. This is not happening with toggle switches. These just got contact by a lil pressure. That?s it.
"ACY"
 
My 05 epiphone lp studio does the same thing, and i was told by the tech at my local dealer that it needs replacing with a better Quality switch .
Wonder if tokai are using the same type of switch? :-?
 
RocknBlues said:
My 05 epiphone lp studio does the same thing, and i was told by the tech at my local dealer that it needs replacing with a better Quality switch .
Wonder if tokai are using the same type of switch? :-?
Click to expand...

It's a very similar design so it probably will have similar problems, but I used to own an Epi and it wasn't just the design that was an issue - it was just a really crappily made switch.

I remember when I first bought that guitar I thought the switch felt really flimsy to use and wondered if I had a bad one, but I tested all the epis on display in the shop and all the switches felt the same so I thought it would be fine. 3 weeks later it failed and I took it back for a warranty repair. The guy in the shop had two shoeboxes behind his counter, one full of switches of all descriptions and one just full of epi switches labelled "warranty repair". I left with an Allparts switch from the nice box.

Regarding the fender question - those switches are a completely different design so won't suffer the same inherent problems as the Gibson type.
 
ACY said:
I think as the Strat style switches are always "sliding" (don?t know if it?s the right word) when using, they are cleaning the contact points by that. This is not happening with toggle switches. These just got contact by a lil pressure. That?s it.
"ACY"
Click to expand...

That's exactly right, 100%.

The Strat and Tele switch is "Self-Cleaning" because each time you operate it the oxide is wiped off.

They do go the same way eventually, but usually after long periods of inactivity, where the oxide build-up becomes too heavy to be removed by operation of the switch.

You can do a better job of cleaning by taking the switch out and cleaning it manually with contact cleaner strips (available from any halfway decent electronics shop).
Basically, they're small strips of lightly abrasive thin card impregnated with a cleaner and lubricant. Put them between the contacts and rub them back and forth for a while until the faces are shiny and clean.

Or, if you want something a bit more professional:

http://www.aa4f.com/
 
Hi there!

Been a long time since my last post,-)) Well actually I had the same problem with my 05 LS80SGT and with nearly all of the Epiphones I had, I don't know why. I never had the problems with my LS150 oder LS320 and also not with any of my Gibsons.
 
My ES-130 is currently at the repairer's awaiting a pickup upgrade. I am now wondering whether it is worth having the switch, pots and output jack upgraded at the same time? Any advice bestowed would be gratefully received...

Best regards,
Darren/MM
 

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